T.I.A. -- happy one year

so, i have been in africa for one year as of last saturday. it is hard to believe at times that it has been a year and it is also at times hard to believe that it has only been a year. i have enjoyed my year. i have struggled in my year. i have matured in my year. i have also dissolved into silliness in my year. i have developed friendships that will last a lifetime and worked to maintain friendships with those far away. i have said goodbye to more people than i ever thought possible in one year. and i have uttered the phrase "T.I.A." countless times.

this phrase is from the movie "blood diamond" and dicaprio's character says this at one point. the person he speaks it to is a novice at the ways of africa and needs a bit more explanation. "This Is Africa". it is said to explain the things we see or hear or (even do?) that are different b/c we are in africa and that is the african way. sometimes we say it derisively, sometimes jestingly, sometimes in acceptance but regardless, there are things that you just say "T.I.A." and go on. below are some of those things.

zemijohns: these are motorcycles or at times little more than a dirt bike that are used as taxis here in benin. they are used to carry home your shopping or your tools to work or the entire family...oh, i can see you shaking your heads thinking i am exaggerating...but no. it is true...see the pics above. and you shake your head and say "T.I.A."

window shopping: this has a slightly different look here in africa. at home window shopping means 'i'm just looking'. here, it means look out the window of the landrover for whatever you might need going by your window carefully balanced atop someone's head. here is a short list of the things you might buy from your window or see perched on someone's head for sale: cell phones and chargers, teapot, iron, food, clothing, fabric to make clothing, guitars, clocks, gum and candy. and i know, you are still thinking i am exaggerating but it is true...look at the pics. and you shake your head and say "T.I.A."

there is an interesting double standard here that falls under the umbrella of "T.I.A."-->it is considered offensive for my bra strap to be showing or for the small of my back to be exposed or my knees to be uncovered. BUT, i have seen people wandering around in random states of undress...the fishermen strip to their skin only as the boats come into harbor, rinse off and dress in other clothes. women wander around topless. children may have a shirt on and nothing else. but don't dare show your knees! "T.I.A."

and my final "T.I.A." for the day. yesterday, i was in the market buying fabric for a skirt. one of the ladies sitting in her booth reached over and patted my fat and said (in french or fon) "you are FAT!"--i said thank you and moved on. it is meant as a compliment here. it means i am rich enough to always have food. but my poor western mind cannot see the compliment in it and would instead feel the taunts of children at home except for that helpful little phrase..."This Is Africa!!!!!!!"